PAG 12, page 8
FREE WITH – Pembletons are Go! Issue No12
WEEKEND WORKSHEET No 4
Cupro-Nickel edging
Create a cupro-nickel edging strip for around the cockpit and spare wheel appature with
simple hand tools by following the instructions below.
An eye catching 'Vintage' finishing touch for around £20.! ! !
You will need for this project -
1 x 25 ft roll 3/8" outside diameter cupro - nickel brake tubing, 1 x tube silicone sealer,
hacksaw, vice, 2 x scraps of MDF, 1 x 12" length of 2"x2" , 4 x woodscrews.
1) Make two side cheeks for the cutting saddle from the scrap MDF. They will need to be at least 2" x 3". Although in this
instance size is not so important. Make sure that one edge is straight though, this will go to the inside and give maximum support to the tube. Screw one cheek to the 2" x 2" with the straight edge at 90 deg to the length.
2) Place the cupro-nickel tube against the fixed side cheek, push the second cheek up to the tube and screw in place. The end result should look like the cutting saddle in picture 1. This clamps into the vice as shown and holds the tube during
cutting..
3) Take advantage of the bend on the tubing as supplied and place one end of the tube on the saddle, the outer edge
upwards and the main coil towards you. (Our tubing had manufacturers specifications printed along its length and this was used as a guide while cutting to make sure we were
sawing straight)
4) Cut through the outer edge only of the cupro - nickel for about 2"
5) Move the tubing through the saddle and cut another 2"
as in pic 2
6) Keep moving the tube and sawing along its length.
7) Once the required length has been cut the tube can be de-burred and test fitted. Gently bending to fit the shape required.
Remember - Do the main shaping off the car
damage to the panels could occur if care is not taken.
8) Now that the tubing is matching the cockpit shape it can be removed, but first draw around the inner edge with pencil on to the aluminium
panels so that on refitting it goes back in the same place.
9) Fill the tube with silicone sealer through the cut.
10) Refit tube and wipe excess sealer from panels. Once set the sealer will bond the tube to the bodywork. Make sure no movement occurs by using adhesive tape at regular intervals. Leave to dry.
12) You may see on pic 3 that a cover plate has been soldered over the join (with the aid of an iron not a flame. This was made out of a bit of scrap copper salvaged from the same water cylinder that provided the copper cowl.
13) Use metal polish to obtain a 'show winning' shine.
Note - Do not under estimate the amount of time and sawing that is involved. Our cockpit trim was over 12 ft long. We think it was worth it ! !