PAG 11, page 2
'Crackleports Compendium of Cogitation's'
'Crackleports back with more conundrums old boy' - I heard the tyre formula revitalised the little grey cells so lets now put them to the test, I've looked through my old pit notes and come up with another couple of thoughts. Think of these facts as you are reaching top speed.
What is the engine's maximum safe R.P.M ? Lets work it out -
Step 1) Decide which band your engine fits into out of the following -
A) Standard - Cast crank, Standard rods, Cast pistons.
B) Heavy Duty - Forged crank, Peened rods, Forged pistons.
C) Race - Forged crank, Aluminium rods, Lightweight pistons, etc.
Step 2) Apply one of the following formula's -
A) Standard - 21,000 divided by the stroke
B) Heavy duty - 24,000 divided by the stroke
C) Race - 30,000 divided by the stroke
My guess is you are a standard band so the sum is 21,000 divided by 2.755"(stroke of 602cc engine)
This gives the maximum safe R.P.M as 7622 (Obviously such a simple calculation can only give a general guide)
So you've got your foot flat to the floor and the motor is revving at 7622 R.P.M. Lets spare a thought for the piston ! What sort of speed do you think it is covering the length of the barrel in ?. We know that at T.D.C and
B.D.C the piston speed is 0 F.P.M (feet per minute) The formula for calculating piston speed is as follows -
Stroke x R.P.M then divide by 6.
So our piston is travelling at 2.755 x 7622 then divided by 6 = 3499 F.P.M. or 39.77 m.p.h
As I pointed out earlier the piston has to start from standing so midpoint the speed must be over 80 M.P.H.
Makes you think doesn't it ! ! Not too much though ! Put it to the back of your mind and just enjoy the drive.
Website Report - Glyn Webster As you maybe aware there was a Website already up and running which had been created by our own Mr Ian Hainsworth, but I was asked if I would get involved to help update and maintain it, so I did, this was my initial downfall. I have created a few websites in the past, so I thought it would be quite simple to modify and maintain an existing site, wrong ! I have explained to Ian that I was at a loss to understand how he actually managed to publish the site, because he had somehow published the existing site without complying or following any of the required rules, this caused me long hours of severe frustration, so after several attempts at modifying and publishing, I did the only thing possible that was left as an option, I destroyed and removed the existing site. Now I really was up against it, so I created a completely new site, following the existing format of course, including sections showing photos of Old No1 and some Owners 'Hoppers' plus a Forum for Owners/Builders to use as a discussion group and help centre. I hope you use it. I am in the position of requiring photos of finished, part finished cars that owners would like to see published on the website or would like to convey to other owners.
Please send your photos etc to me and I will endeavour to update the website on a regular basis for your viewing pleasure - Glyn
(Hope you can all support Glyn and the website I know how much effort went into it - Ed)
A Tip from Alex - This has probably been thought of before, but the following helped give the rear panels the perfect shape around the spare wheel, as well as strengthening them no end. The short side sections of the upper rear chassis crossmember (the one holding the spare wheel) are an ideal fixing point for plates to hold the rear side panels to the desired curve. I made flat shapes from the same gauge aluminium as the bodywork which rivet onto the upper face of the crossmember and have a curved flange onto which the side panels rivet. The resulting line of rivets will match nicely the angle of the spare wheel, and the pieces inside don't hinder work around the rear wheel. To get the right shape for the panel, have an assistant (or duct tape, or whatever springs to mind) hold the panel in the desired position while you carefully shape a piece of card to make a template. Stiffer card is definitely preferable, e.g. cornflake packet. Then just mark it onto aluminium and add a flange on to the curved side and the bottom. (The latter will fix to the flange on the rear side panel) I've attatched a very rough sketch of the general idea. Great idea Alex keep us up to date with progress - Ed